![[Church Tower]](pix/tower.gif)
This short description of Gilling Church was prepared for the Internet by APL-385. It is available as a booklet, on sale in the Church.
© Copyright Church of the Holy Cross, Gilling 1996
The village of Gilling East stands at the eastern end of the Gilling–Coxwold Gap between the Hambleton Hills to the north and the Howardian Hills to the south. It also commands a pass through the Howardian Hills carrying the B1363 to York. The pariish includes the villages of Gilling East, Cawton, and Grimston. The Church is dedicated to the Holy Cross, but has, in the past, been referred to as St. Mary’s or St. Helena’s. The latter has a link with the Holy Cross as Queen Helena is reputed to have found the True Cross.
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(Work in Progress)
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The oldest parts of the Nave are the attachments of the end arches to the Tower and the Chancel Arch. These are 11th century. The Nave arches, with their cylindrical piers and square abaci, together with the pointed arches, are late Norman, probably before 1190AD. The north and south arches differ slightly in that the ribbing under the north arcade is not in the centre of the wall. There are three arches on each side.
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The north aisle and doorway are 14th century but the original windows were replaced in the 19th century. The square-headed west window is partly original and similar to those of the south aisle. The three windows of the south aisle are 14th century, the westernmost being much restored. The window in the west wall is modern. The south doorway is 14th century and the fine oak door is 18th century, with iron hinges. Note the corbels on the north of this aisle for supporting a previous roof.
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The Early English Chancel was probably rebuilt by Sir Thomas de Etton, Lord of Gilling Castle, in the mid-14th century, in the Decorated style. At this time it was widened on the south side, producing the effect that the altar is not on the centre-line of the church. The east wall was partly rebuilt in the 19th century. The original east window was lower than the present one, and it once contained the arms of the Etton, Malbys, and Fairfax families, all inter-related by marriage. The window on the north side is 14th century. The windows in the south wall are worthy of special note. The easternmost is 14th century, being of two lights and tracery. The westernmost is similar. The middle window has been inserted later, in the 16th century. It is of four lights, and identical in design to the window in the Tower which was built about 1503.
Under this window is a small doorway also of the 16th century. The Chancel Arch is modern, being built in about 1850AD. On the Chancel side of the arch wall are three corbels indicating that at this time the roof was raised. The present roof is 19th century. There is a squint opening on to the south aisle. On the outside the corner buttresses to the east wall are 16th century and placed there when the roof was raised.
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The tower was built at the end of the 15th century as shown by the will of Robert Wellyngton, who also provided the middle window in the south wall of the Chancel. The tower is in two stages with an embattled parapet. The tower arch is not original but was inserted in 1753AD. There are gargoyles on the north and south sides. The remains of a gargoyle are to be seen on a window ledge in the south aisle.
There are three bells dated 1667, 1701 and 1773AD. The earliest bell was givne by Charles Fairfax, the 5th Viscount.
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In the north-east corner of the Chancel is a rare 14th Century tomb slab of an unknown knight, set under a 14th century arch. It has been suggested that the tomb is that of the founder of the church, perhaps one of the Malbys family. It consists of a slab carved with a floriated cross pierced with a quatrefoil to reveal the feet of the deceased. The knight is wearing a bassinet and his hands are folded in prayer. On the side of the cross is a shield and sword. The shield bears three martlets or swallows. On the dexter side is the knight’s helm with the crest, and the head and neck of a deer or horse. If this is a deer the knight may be a Malbys. However it has been further suggested that it is that of Sir Ivo de Etton, a knight-templar. There are other similar monuments at Melsonby, Brize Norton, Kingerby and Staunton.
In the wall of the south aisle is a late 14th century tomb recess. The very defaced arms on each side are those of the Etton family. The middle shield is unrecognisable.
The large set of recumbent figures near the south- east arch of the nave are those of Sir Nicholas Fairfax and his two wives, Jane Palmes and Alice Harrington. He died in 1572AD and was High Sheriff of Yorkshire under Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. Some mention has been made elsewhere of a representation of the children of his first wife, but this must have disappeared when the present altar tomb was erected about 1840. The monument is probably not in its original position.
In the west end of the south aisle is a fine piece of sculpture, in white marble, consisting of a figure of Piety reclining ovcer two urns. The work is by Gott, a famous sculptor, who lived in Rome. It is to the memory of Thomas Fairfax who died in 1828AD.
There are two deeply incised floriated crosses on coffin lids of 14th century date, deposited near the above statue.
There are numerous wall monuments, mainly to the Fairfax family and past Rectors.
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In the centre of the Chancel floor there is a small brass, 25 inches by 7&189; inches, let into a marble slab. It commemorates the death of Robert Wellyngton, prebendary of the prebend of Ullerskelf, Rector of Bolton Percy, and Rector of Gilling. He was instituted Rector of Gilling in 1438AD. By his will he was to be buried in the Church of the Holy Cross, Gilling. In addition to insertting the middle window and the doorway in the south wall of the Chancel, he built the Tower and provided for the supply of a bell when the Tower should be finished. That bell does not now exist. The brass is considered to be a good example of York workmanship.
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The organ, consisting of two manuals and pedals, was given by Mrs Fairfax and made by Foster and Andrews of Hull in 1883AD.
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The clock in the tower was bought and placed there through the efforts of Prince Ranjitsinhji, the cricketer. He often lived at Giling Rectory in 1889. He organised cricket matches at Gilling in which county cricketers played, to raise money for the clock and the repair of the Tower. The clock is by G.J.F. Newey of York.
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Most of the glass is modern but there is a small portion of ancient glass in the top of the Chancel windows. The glass recorded as being in the east window has gone.
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The font now in use is modern. In the south aisle are the remains of a tub font, very plain and crude. Gill is his ‘Vallis Eboracensis’ refers to the font at Gilling as being ‘rude and crumbling’ and of ‘extreme antiquity’. This old font was dug up in the churchyard and may be the one referred to By Gill. Note the section cut away, perhaps to take the baby’s head.
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On the south side of the church is an ancient carved stone cross of plain Saxon design. It is similar to those built into the walls at Kirkdale. Outside the south doorway the stonework is defaced by grooves cut deeply into the stone. These grooves, a common occurrence in churches, are popularly supposed to have been made by Cromwell’s soldiers sharpening their weapons. This may be so, but as the church was likely to be the only stone building in the village it is possible that they were made by ordinary villagers sharpening their tools.
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The Old Rectory is to the east of the Church. The west end is the oldest part, and is pre-Reformation.
The row of houses in the main street, all similar, were built as estate houses. The houses were increased in height in 1910.
The oldest buildings in the village are the Forge in Cawton Lane, and the house immediately north of the Church facing the main street.
The Castle is open to the public at specified times. The Roman Catholic Chantry (opposite the Church) was originally the village school, and then the reading room. The later school (now closed and used as a village hall) is at the end of Pottergate.
The railway station at the north end of the village still retains the platforms. It is now a private dwelling.
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